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  • Ajuda!   por FLRebelo em 06 Nov, 2012 19:31
  • Malta, haverá por ai alguém que me possa dar algum conselho sobre a mudança de oleo da minha caixa automatica?

    Ouvi dizer que não é qualquer um que faz a mudança deste oleo pois esta caixa tem "truques" para o fazer!

    Alguém com conhecimento disto?

    OBRIGADO desde já a todas as respostas que me venham a dar.
  • Responder #1   por TesZero em 07 Nov, 2012 08:44
  • caixas automáticas... zero...
    se por ventura tiver um tempinho e encontrar algo na net posto aqui neste tópico.

    Se por ventura for ao veloso num destes dias também lhe pergunto como se faz.

    Caso descubras primeiro que nós o método, partilha com a malta.

    Abraço
  • Responder #2   por amreal em 20 Nov, 2012 20:29
  • Nao percebendo nada sobre caixa AT, encontrei isto:



    Tutorial: (retirado de um outro forum)
    These instructions are for the 2.3 4-cylinder engine.

    Tools needed

        funnel
        24mm wrench/spanner or adjustable wrench
        ramps or jack/axle stands for raising the front of the car
        container for draining the used ATF


    Parts/supplies needed

        12 liters/quarts of ATF
        18mm aluminum washer


    Tip
    4 quarts of ATF brings the fluid level right at the minimum on the ATF dipstick. 1 quart = 946ml so 4 quarts is 3.78 liters. Difference between min and max = 0.5 liters. I saved about 1/4 of the bottle of the 2nd change (used some of the drained ATF) and used that on the final change with the other 4 quarts so the level was right between min and max.

    Note
    Some of the newer Saab 9-5 do not have a an ATF dipstick anymore. This may make it more difficult to fill and check the correct level. Please refer to the WIS instructions in this thread.

    Type of ATF and interval

    1998-2001 4-speed AT
    Dextron III - Texaco Texamatic 7045 - mineral oil based

    Change at:
    60,000 miles / 96,000 km (North America)
    66,000 miles / 110,000 km (Europe, rest of world)

    2002-2009 5-speed AT
    Saab 3309 - mineral oil based

    Change at:
    60.000 (MY06+), 90,000 (MY05) or 100,000 (MY03) miles

    Note: Saab changed the change interval through the years. While they advice 100K miles for MY03, it's safe to assume 60,000 miles should be used for all model years MY02 and up.


    Difficulty rating (scale of 1 to 5):1 - Easy
    This is very easy to do yourself. If you can hold a wrench, loosen/fasten a bolt and pour liquid from a bottle, you can do this!

    Time estimate:1-2 hours for all 3 changes

    Instructions

    Warm up the engine and transmission by going for a short drive if the engine is cold.

    Raise the car with ramps or use a jack and support the car with axle stands. I am sure this has been said many times before but never, never work under a car only supported by a jack. Not even for a few minutes. Never!



    The drain bolt is located to the right of the exhaust when looking from the front of the car. It's the only 24mm bolt in that area so you can't mistake it for anything else. There is not enough room for a socket so an open-ended or ring wrench/spanner is needed. An adjustable wrench will be fine as well.





    Place a container under the transmission and loosen the bolt. The ATF will start draining out slowly when the bolt is almost at its end. Removing the bolt will make the fluid gush out because it's a pretty large opening. Because the engine is warm/hot, this fluid can be very hot so be very careful not to get it all over your hands or arms. It really can cause severe burns.





    Put the bolt back on. Use the old washer for now. Use the new washer after the final drain. About 4 quarts/liters is drained every time so fill up the transmission with 4 quarts/liters of new ATF. The fluid is added through the dipstick tube.



    Warm up the engine. Shift through Drive and Neutral so the fluid can get distributed through the transmission. Check the fluid level and add if necessary. Drive the car for a while so the new fluid can mix with the old. Some drive it for a week between changes and others drive a few miles. At least 20 miles/30 kilometers seems a good choice but it's just a guess, really.

    Repeat the process. The idea is to do at least three times because you can never get all the fluid out. There is about 3 liters left in the oil cooler and torque converter after all fluid is drained. Total capacity is 7 liters, according to the WIS.

    After the first change, there is 4 liters of new fluid and 3 liters old fluid in the transmission so about 57% new. The second change drains another 1.5 liter (79% new fluid) of the old fluid and the third .75 liter. So after 3 changes, there will still be .75 liter of the old fluid left which is about 11%. But 89% of new ATF seems good enough for most. You can change the fluid an infinite number of times and you'll never get all the old fluid out.

    New fluid
    1st change: 57%
    2nd change: 79%
    3rd change: 89%

    This the old and new fluid on a 5-year old 2005 9-5 Aero with 75K miles.




    The drain bolt and the washer. The washer should be replaced after the final change.



     fonte:   Para visualizar hiperligações por favor faça LogIn

    Espero ter ajudado.

    Boa sorte.
  • Responder #3   por Guest em 21 Nov, 2012 02:01
  •  :o :o :o :o

    Que grande post  O0 O0 O0

    Abraço
  • Responder #4   por amreal em 21 Nov, 2012 16:54
  • esperemos que seja útil ao FLRebelo   ;)
  • Responder #5   por FLRebelo em 21 Nov, 2012 23:16
  • epá!!!!!


    MUITO BOM!!!!!!!


    MUITO obrigado!!! ;-)
  • Responder #6   por FLRebelo em 22 Nov, 2012 00:19
  • Já agora e para ver se percebi bem, vou precisar de 12L de oleo ATF, para fazer uma mudança completa?!?!  :-\

    e já agora alguem me sabe dizer o que é isto?!?!? >>>>>  18mm aluminum washer
  • Responder #7   por SMAP em 22 Nov, 2012 08:34
  • e já agora alguem me sabe dizer o que é isto?!?!? >>>>>  18mm aluminum washer

    Washer => anilha
  • Responder #8   por castelar em 22 Nov, 2012 19:41
  • Mais um cliente satisfeito  ;) ;) ;)
  • Responder #9   por TesZero em 24 Nov, 2012 16:29
  • boas, as anilhas por norma costumo usar de cobre, de esmagamento.
    nunca tive problemas, utilizo montes e são super baratas :D

    pasta pedires uma anilha de esmagamento de 18mm em qualquer casa de peças e cobram-te uns 10 cêntimos :D

    O parafuso trocas se houver desgaste do mesmo ou se andares a usar chaves erradas para o desapertares.

    Cuidado no aperto, por norma usa-se aproximadamente 20 nm, superior a isso pode rachar o local de aperto... porque por norma carter´s de motor e caixas são em alumínio.

    Abraço

    Abraço
  • Responder #10   por amreal em 24 Nov, 2012 22:15
  • Tópico DIY traduzido para Português!!

     O0

    Link directo:   Para visualizar hiperligações por favor faça LogIn

  • Responder #11   por teco em 20 Jan, 2013 00:09
  • Malta, haverá por ai alguém que me possa dar algum conselho sobre a mudança de oleo da minha caixa automatica?

    Se quiseres manda PM com a matricula para eu pelo VIN ver no WIS quais os passos indicados pela SAAB e óleo recomendado para isso :) Depois posto aqui!

    estás vivo, tenho de te levar a comer uma boa francesinha que te devo ;)

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